Viktor & Rolf | Haute Couture Fall Winter 2017/2018
Showing posts with label fashion?. Show all posts
Showing posts with label fashion?. Show all posts
7/7/17
1/7/17
6/2/15
5/13/15
1/24/15
RICK OWENS~ GET THAT DICK OUTTA MY ASS
What Rick Owens' full-frontal runway show says about us
Basically: we're all afraid of a little dick
- Text Zing Tsjeng
- Photography Lea Colombo
It takes a lot to shock the fashion world. Buttcrack-revealing trousers? Alexander McQueen did that in the 90s. A model wearing a niqab cut off above her waist to show her crotch? Hussein Chalayan did it in '96. But yesterday, Rick Owens made the front row sit up and pay attention by sending out male models sans underwear in crotch cut-outs and peephole tunics. Alert, alert: penis on the catwalk! Unleash the Dick Owens puns!
This isn't the first penis sighted on the runway in recent times. Meadham Kirchhoff's SS15 show last year featured a model in semi-sheer black trousers, wang proudly on show. But judging from the column inches alone, you'd be forgiven for thinking Rick Owens was literally shoving nudity in people's faces.
This was male exposure of a very different sort, though. Some audience members failed to notice the junk entirely. As always, it's only in the retelling that the offending members took on larger-than-life proportions. "I liked that you hardly noticed it," Susie Bubble said. "It wasn't nudity for the sake of nudity. I honestly didn't see until somebody pointed out the dick flaps and the undie holes."
Discreet, tucked away, quiet – these aren't the thrusting phalluses from Tom of Finland. Nor are they the cheery, candy-coloured penis shoes of Walter Van Beirendonck. And they're most definitely not the questionable bulge of Justin Bieber's Calvin Klein campaign. Independent fashion critic Alexander Fury compared one to a "turkey dinosaur".
As cocks go, they're pretty underwhelming. This sentiment was best summed up by one model from the show, who breezily told the Guardian: "It was not a thing at all. Everyone knew what they would be wearing at early fittings... I just noticed it when I looked at the photo board and saw that there were cocks hanging about. Ha!"
So why the fuss, seeing as we live in a world where millions of cocks are only a click away? For that, just look to the immediate online reaction to Rick Owens. Many people took one look and immediately referenced this scene from the Inbetweeners, in which Simon suffers from a wardrobe malfunction during his school's fashion show. He ends up proudly strutting down the runway with one bollock hanging out. Or the scene in Forgetting Sarah Marshall, where Jason Segal drops his towel in shock when his beloved girlfriend dumps him.
In short, male nudity – when it doesn't involve wink-nudge clothed bulges or hard-ons – is always a punchline. It's a joke. We don't have the vocabulary to even talk about cocks without turning into giggly schoolkids (hence the Dick Owens puns). A flaccid penis is something to be ashamed of, laughed at and humiliated.
The catwalk has always been a social space where debates over sexuality, beauty and expression play out. Owens' show strikes a chord in the current climate. This week, the Sun dumped Page 3, only to triumphantly announce that its topless models were staying for good. Aussie magazine Sticks & Stones has found itself banned from Instagram for uploading a picture of models with pubic hair. Nudity is always political. In 1989, artist Barbara Kruger splashed the words "Your Body Is A Battleground" across a photograph of a woman staring directly at the viewer. That applies to men, too.
"Nudity is the most simple and primal gesture," Owens said backstage. "It packs a punch. It’s powerful. It’s a straight world now. It says something about being independent. Who else can really get away with this stuff? It’s a corporate world! This was our private moment."
Emphasis on "straight". Owens may have been talking about corporatism in the fashion world, but he's always been interested in enlarging the definitions of sexuality beyond the straight and narrow – you just need to look at his lookbook collaboration with the fetish photographer Rick Castro to see that. And what definition is more straighter and more narrow than the heterosexual man?
1/22/15
6/29/13
RICK OWENS~ OBSESSION IS MY MIDDLE NAME
WOW! the spring/summer menswear collection from my longtime pal~ RICK OWENS is amazing.
cool, modern, minimal & extremely wearable.. perfect for LA with the oncoming heatwave.
(i want these in black!)
i always say that fashion is obsolete, but RO is not fashion, it is lifestyle.
here are a few of my favorite obsessions.
3/23/12
SEX~ BOUTIQUE~ KINGS ROAD
SEX
was the original clothing boutique of vivian westwood & malcolm mclaren
on 430 kings rd, london circa 1974 thru 1976.
they are credited with starting the punk look in fashion.
The façade included a 4 ft sign of 4 ft pink foam rubber letters read “SEX”. The interior was covered with graffiti from the SCUM Manifesto and chickenwire. Rubber curtains covered the walls and red carpeting was installed.
SEX sold fetish and bondage wear supplied by existing specialist labels such as Atomage, She-And-Me and London Leatherman as well as designs by McLaren and Westwood. Among customers atSEX were the four original members of The Sex Pistols (the bass-player Glen Matlock was an employee as a sales assistant on Saturdays. The group's name was provided by McLaren in partial promotion of the boutique.
In late 1975 when nineteen-year-old John Lydon was persuaded to audition for the group by singing along to Alice Cooper's "I'm Eighteen" on the jukebox. Other notable patrons included occasional assistant Chrissie Hynde, Adam Ant, Marco Pirroni, Siouxsie Sioux, Steve Severin and the rest of the Bromley Contingent.
The store's designs confronted social and sexual taboos, and included T-shirts bearing images of the Cambridge Rapist's face hood, semi-naked cowboys from a 1969 illustration by the US artist Tom of Finland, (wikipedia wrongly credits~ Jim French), a trompe-l'œil image of bare breasts from a novelty shirt first produced by Rhode island School Of Art students Janusz and Laura Gottwald in the late 60s, and pornographic texts from the book School for Wives by the beat author Alexander Trocchi.
Among the designs were clear plastic-pocketed jeans, zippered tops and the Anarchy shirt which used stock from the 60s manufacturer Wemblex.
These were bleached and dyed shirts and adorned with silk Karl Marx patches and anarchist slogans.
In December 1976, 430 King's Road was renamed Seditionaries, trading under that title until September 1980. Designs were licensed by Westwood to the operators of King's Road boutique
"Boy" who issued them - some with alterations - over the next eight years
In late 1980, the shop at 430 King's Road re-opened under the name World's End. The building was designed by McLaren and Westwood and realised by Roger Burton, aided by Jeremy Blackburn and Tony Devers, to resemble a mixture of the Olde Curiosity Shoppe and an 18th century galleon. The facade was installed with a large clock which spun backwards with the floor raked at an angle. McLaren and Westwood launched the first of a series of collections from the outlet at the beginning of 1981 and collaborated for a further three years. World's End remains open as part of Vivienne Westwood's global fashion empire.
2/26/12
11/26/11
9/28/11
9/27/11
VAGINA FASHION
ummm.. "X MARKS THE VAGINA?" "KISS OF THE SPIDER WOMAN?" "THAT TIME OF THE MONTH?"
" photo courtesy- Wade Photog Phillips- NYC/antebellum corespondent
" photo courtesy- Wade Photog Phillips- NYC/antebellum corespondent
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