THE END OF 2017: A DIARY BY RICK CASTRO- PART5

12.21.2017- LATE AFTERNOON

VENEZIA!

I’VE SEEN MANY MOVIES DEPICTING THE WONDERS OF VENICE-

SUMMERTIME, (1955),  DEATH IN VENICE, (1972), DON’T LOOK NOW, (1973), 

THE COMFORT OF STRANGERS, (1987), EVEN CASINO ROYAL, (2000).

IT DOESN’T MATTER. TO SEE VENICE IN REAL TIME IS OVERWHELMING;

FROM THE TRAIN ZOOMING DOWN THE LONG NARROW TRACK…

OCEAN ON BOTH SIDES, (THE LAST STOP)… 

THEN EXITING THE TRAIN STATION TO A SPECTACULAR VIEW OF THE GRAND CANAL..

REALIZING WHEN THEY SAY BUS OR TAXI, THEY MEAN ON THE WATER. 

I LOVE THE IDEA OF A CITY WITH NO CARS. I HATE CARS.

THE WATER BUS IS ONLY 7EUROS,  (APPROX $8.50) COMPARED TO THE WATER TAXI- 

75EUROS, (APPROX $90) OR THE GONDOLAS- 120EUROS, APPROX $143).

THE GONDOLAS ARE QUAINT TO LOOK AT, BUT ONLY ASIAN TOURISTS RENT THEM. 

THEY'RE SIMPLY TOO OSTENTATIOUS.

VENICE IS BREATHTAKING….

I KEEP SAYING TO MYSELF, HOW IS IT POSSIBLE THIS EXISTS? 

VENEZIA HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH THE REST OF THE WORLD.

I’M STILL NOT CONVINCED IT IS REAL. I BELIEVE VENEZIA IS A TEMPORARY, 

OR PERMANENT AUTONOMOUS ZONE.  VENEZIA  ONLY EXISTS IN DREAMS.

I FEEL LIKE THAT KATHERINE HEPBURN CHARACTER IN SUMMERTIME. 

ALL DORKY AND EXCITED TO BE HERE. 

ALTHOUGH FREEZING, I TAKE IT ALL IN ON THE WATERBUS. I’M THEN DROPPED OFF AT A  PICCOLO STRADA THAT LOOKS LIKE SOMETHING OUT OF DON’T LOOK NOW.

 I MAKE MY WAY WITH MY WHEELED LUGGAGE ECHOING THRU A STREET THAT IS SO NARROW,  IF SOMEBODY IS COMING THE OTHER WAY, YOU HAVE TO FLATTEN AGAINST THE WALL TO MAKE ROOM.

THEN OUT INTO A SMALL PIAZZA, THEN OVER A BRIDGE, MORE NARROW STREETS TWISTING AND TURNING, AND THERE IS HOTEL SATURNIA. 

BEAUTIFUL. GRAND, BUT NOT PRETENTIOUS. OLD WORLD STYLE. 

THE CONCIERGE  AS FRIENDLY AND POLITE AS THEY COME; ELEGANT, A GENTLEMAN, IN FACT, THE ENTIRE STAFF IS READY TO WAIT ON ME HAND & FOOT. 

I HAVEN’T BEEN TREATED WITH THIS MUCH RESPECT SINCE…..?

I’VE NEVER BEEN TREATED WITH THIS MUCH RESPECT.

I’M SHOWN TO MY ROOM, PERFECT.. DARK WOOD, A SLIGHT NOD TO DEATH IN VENICE. I’M THEN LEAD DOWN THE HALLWAY WHERE I CAN BOIL WATER AND BREW MY OWN TEA! HOTEL SATURNIA KNOWS ME. “SHE” IS  KILLING ME SOFTLY WITH “HER” SONG.

ALTHOUGH EXHAUSTED FROM TRAVEL, I MUST CHECK OUT VENEZIA, JUST TO GET MY BEARINGS.

PASSING THE VICTORIAN FRONT DESK. THE CONCIERGE SAYS, “BUONASERA.”

 I WALK OUTSIDE INTO THE FREEZING COLD. IT IS EXHILARATING.

 I MAKE MY WAY THRU A FEW NARROW CORRIDORS AND ONTO PIAZZA SAN MARCO. THE WORLD FAMOUS PLAZA OF VENEZIA. STUNNING… I’M NOW A SHUTTLER BUG, AS IS EVERYBODY ELSE.. THERE’S NO WAY YOU CAN PASS UP TAKING PHOTOS OF ALL THIS BEAUTY. IT WOULD BE IMPOSSIBLE TO GET A BAD SHOT.

I WALK PASS THE CAMPANILE DI SAN MARCO AND AM NOW FACING ONE OF THE FAMOUS LAGUNAS DI VENEZIA.

I AM GUSTAV VON ASCHENBACH LOOKING AT THE LAGOON WATERFRONT FOR THE FIRST TIME.. IN THE DISTANCE IS LIDO. I TRY TO TAKE IT ALL IN.. I AM  ALONE IN VENEZIA, ITALY FOR THE FIRST TIME IN MY LONG LIFE. I AM  A 60 YEAR OLD MAN LIVING IN MY DREAM.. 

HOW DOES SOMETHING SO FRAGILE AND BEAUTIFUL EXIST IN 2017?! 

I START TO CRY…. REALLY I DO.

12.22.2017

THE NEXT MORNING I AM THE MANOR BORN. I BREW MY TEA AT THE HALLWAY TEA STATION, INDULGE IN THE BIDET, (AMERICA REALLY NEEDS TO GET WITH THE PROGRAM) AND THEN MEANDER DOWN TO THE RESTAURANT FOR BREAKFAST. EVERYTHING IS SPREAD OUT SO ELEGANTLY. I DECIDE TO MAKE A WAFFLE,  LITTLE OF BIT OF SCRAMBLE EGG, ORANGE JUICE AND MORE TEA.

THEN GO OUT FOR THE DAY CAMERA IN HAND. I’VE TAKEN SO MANY PHOTOS, MY CELL PHONE MEMORY IS MAXED.  I SWITCH TO AN OLD FASHION DIGITAL CAMERA.

RICK OWENS SUGGESTED THE PALAZZO  FORTUNY, BUT THEY ARE CLOSED FOR RENOVATIONS. THIS IS A CONTINUOUS THING IN VENEZIA. PLACES CLOSE FOR MONTHS OF RESTORATION. WHEN YOU THINK ABOUT THE UPKEEP OF A CITY THAT DATES BACK TO 10TH CENTURY BC, THAT IS ALLOT OF MAINTENANCE.

I DECIDE TO JUST WALK. WHATEVER I COME UPON WILL BE AMAZING FOR ME.

I INSTINCTUALLY  WALK PASS THE PIAZZA SAN MARCO AND THE CATHEDRAL BASILICA WALKING ON THE LAGOON WATERFRONT. 
AFTER AWHILE THERE ARE NO MORE TURISTI .

THE AREA IS QUIET. STUNNINGLY BEAUTIFUL. I LIKE THIS PARTICULAR STREET~ VIA GIUSEPPE GARIBALDI,  SO WALK DOWN. TURNS OUT THIS IS THE STREET OF THE LOCALS. I’VE FOUND IT ON MY OWN. I THEN WALK TO A PLEASANT PARK~ 

GIARDINI DELLA BIENNALE. ON A BRIDGE, I NOTICE THIS SEXY BOAT DRIVER GOING DIRECTLY UNDER. I SIT AND WATCH. I’M FASCINATED HOW AN ORDINARY MAN CAN BE SO ATTRACTIVE. HE’S ON A MISSION TO GET THAT BOAT DOCKED, THEN LOOK UP SOMETHING ON HIS PAPER. HE HAS A PACKAGE. I GUESS HE’S A DELIVERY PERSON? OK! HE IS THE VENEZIA VERSION OF FEDEX! HIS BOAT HAS A LOGO. SO REASSURING.

I’VE MADE MY WAY TO THE END OF THE ISLAND. I’M IN A BEAUTIFUL PARK~ 

PARCO DELLE RIMEMBRANZE,  WATCHING TWO VENETIAN MEN PLAY BASKETBALL. ALTHOUGH ITS 38 DEGREES, ONE OF THEM HAS HIS SHIRT OFF.
 I AM HAPPY,

THE GUY WITH HIS SHIRT OFF WINS AND DOES NUMEROUS PULL-UPS FROM THE BASKET HOOP. HE THEN HANGS UPSIDE DOWN WITH HIS ARMS BEHIND HIS BACK. DUDE, YOU’RE GIVING ME A HARD-ON!

I WALK TO A HAUNTED LITTLE GARDEN ATIRUM THAT’S BEEN TURNED INTO A CAFFE.

I HAVE ME TEA AND A DELICIOUS VEGETABLE TARTE. AS I SIP MY TEA AND READ MY BOOK FOR MY BOOKCLUB- NARROW ROOMS BY JAMES PURDY, A BLACK CAT PLAYS IN THE COURTYARD. THIS IS A DREAM OF MY OWN CREATION. 
I DON’T WANT TO PINCH MYSELF.. I DON’T WANT TO WAKE UP.

I DECIDED TO HAVE DINNER AT THIS LOCAL CAFFE ON VIA GIUSEPPE GARIBALDI, BECAUSE THEY HAVE BLACK SPAGHETTI WITH CUTTLEFISH. IT IS INCREDIBLE… ONLY 11EUROS.

 

12.23.2017

AFTER MY BREAKFAST, I READ & WRITE IN THE SATURNIA LOBBY.. 

DARK AND GOTHIC. PERFECT.

NOBODY USES IT, EXCEPT FOR THE MAIDS. THEY SEEM SURPRISED TO SEE A GUEST HERE. 

I HAVE THIS LAST DAY LEFT, I WANT TO DO MANY THINGS IN. I WILL BE WALKING ALLOT. 

FIRST I CROSS THE  GRAND CANAL BRIDGE  TO THE DORSODURO SESTIERE AND CHECK OUT THE PEGGY GUGGENHEIM COLLECTION BESIDES THE MUSEO, (WHICH I PASS ON- TOO EXPENSIVE & TOO   MUCH TIME) THERE IS A QUAINT CENTRO SHE FUNDS. A COLLECTION OF PICTURESQUE SHOPS, ARTISTS STUDIOS  & LITTLE CAFFES.

I WALK THE LENGTH OF DORSODURO, THIS IS SOME WALK FOR A PERSON WITH PERMANENT LEG INJURY.  

AT THE VERY END IS A SMALL DOCK/PENINSULA WHERE I CAN VIEW SAN MARCO. TWO NIGHTS AGO  I  WAS IN AWE ON THE OTHER SIDE. NOW I AM IN DAYTIME WITH THE OPPOSITE VIEW. MANY PEOPLE ARE TAKING SELFIES. I DON’T BELIEVE IN MODERN DAY SELFIES, SO I ASK THIS SWEET ASIAN TOURIST IF HE WILL TAKE MY PHOTO. HE’S USING A TRIPOD SO HE KNOWS WHAT HE’S DOING. I’M NOT PHOTOGENIC, BUT I PUT ON MY “COSTUME,” ( THIS CONSISTS OF DARK CLIP-ON SHADES) FOR THE FULL PORTRAIT EXPERIENCE. I AM IN MY ELEMENT. I THINK I CAME OUT GREAT.

WHAT DO YOU THINK?

 SINCE IT IS 38 DEGREES I DRINK SOME MULLED WINE. SWEET, BUT HITS THE SPOT. AS I’M SIPPING MY WARM WINE, THESE KIDS ARE PLAYING.. NOT JUST PLAYING, BUT SCREAMING AT THE TOP OF THEIR  LITTLE LUNGS. EVEN THOUGH THERE’S NUMEROUS ADULT SUPERVISION, NOBODY ASKS THEME TO LOWER THE VOLUME. NOBODY, BUT ME. I GIVE THEM STINK EYE. IT DOESN’T WORK. HOW CAN ALL THESE PEOPLE NOT SEE HOW THIS SHRILL NOISE RUINS THE AMBIANCE? 

THEY MUST BE AMERICAN.. YEP- I WAS RIGHT. THEY ARE AN AMERICAN FAMILY.

AMERICAN’S HAVE NO INTEREST IN ATMOSPHERE.. THIS AMONG MANY THINGS.

 IT IS COLD AS A WITCHES TIT. 

COMING FROM SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA, I HAVE THIN BLOOD. I AFTER A NICE SLICE OF PIZZA AND MY MULLED WINE I HAVE TO PISS LIKE A RACEHORSE. SINCE I DON’T KNOW OF ANY PUBLIC LATRINES I DISCOVER A SECRET STREET WHERE I MAY RELIVE MYSELF.... BOY THAT FELT GOOD.

 NOW LOOKING AT MY SURROUNDING.. WOW- WHAT DID I STUMBLE UPON?

I AM REMINDED OF EERIE STREETS IN DON’T LOOK NOW. EVERYTHING IN VENEZIA IS ANCIENT AND HAUNTED. I MEAN THIS IN THE BEST WAY. HAUNTINGS ARE NOT ALWAYS NEGATIVE. NOT BY A LONG SHOT. WHEN PLACES ARE HAUNTED IT MERELY MEANS MANY HAVE LIVED IN THE AREA. VENEZIA IS A VERY CONCENTRATED SMALL AREA.. NUMEROUS HISTORIC EVENTS HAVE TAKEN PLACE ON THIS SMALL SLIVER OF GEOGRAPHY.. I LOVE THE FEELING OF VENEZIA~ SOMBER, ROMANTIC, LONELY, HAUNTED.

THERE IS A PYRAMID SHAPED OBJECT IN THE CORNER OF THIS DARK- STILL STREET.

AN ESOTERIC RELIC CREATED BY WHO KNOWS WHOM, FROM WHO KNOWS WHEN FOR WHO KNOWS WHY?

 I LOVE IT- LIKE A CROSS BETWEEN DON’T LOOK NOW AND THE TENENT. AS SOMEONE FROM HOLLYWOOD, I ALWAYS USE CINEMATIC REFERENCE TO DESCRIBE THINGS. I HAVE A CINEMATIC MIND.

I AM NOW BACK AT PIAZZA DI SAN MARCO, AT THE PROCURATIE NUOVE. A ROW OF SHOPS, SOME DATING BACK TO 17TH CENTURY, WITH THE LAST WING COMPLETED UNDER NAPOLEON’S OCCUPATION. I HAVE MY EYE ON THESE EMERALD GREEN EARRINGS IN THE SHOP WINDOW. I’M THINKING THEY WILL BE THE PERFECT PRESENT FOR MY SISTER. SHE HAS GREEN EYES. THESE EARRINGS WILL BRING THEM OUT,

THE SHOP OWNER IS A COMPLETE DOLL. SHE HELPS ME SELECT THE PERFECT SHAPE AND SIZE, TRIES ON A FEW PAIRS TO HELP ME GET A VISUAL.

“THIS SIZE WILL BE BEST FOR YOUR SISTER, SHE SAYS, THEY CAN BE WORE IN THE DAY, AND THEN EASILY INTO THE EVENING.”

SHE EVEN GIVES ME A DISCOUNT.

IT IS TEATIME!

I’VE WAITING UNTIL NOW TO GO TO CAFFE FLORIAN. THIS WILL BE THE PIE’CE DE RE’SISTANCE & EXTRAVAGANCE OF MY TRIP.

CAFFE FLORIAN IS THE PREMIERE COFFEE HOUSE/TEAROOM IN THE PROCURATIE NUOVE OF PIAZZA SAN MARCO.  WHEN YOU TALK ABOUT PRIME REAL ESTATE, IT DOESN’T GET GRANDER THAN THIS.

ESTABLISHED IN 1720, CAFFE FLORIAN IS THE OLDEST COFFEE HOUSE IN CONTINUOUS OPERATION. 

THE CAFFE CUSTOMERS HAVE INCLUDED~ CARLO GOLDONI, GOETHE, AND CASANOVA, (AS IN THE GREAT ITALIAN LOVER) WHO WAS ATTRACTED BY THE FACT THAT FLORIAN WAS THE ONLY COFFEE HOUSE THAT ALLOWED WOMEN.

OVER THE YEARS~ LORD BYRON, PROUST AND CHARLES DICKENS HAVE SIPPED TEA HERE! DURING THE MID-18TH CENTURY FLORIAN WAS THE MEETING PLACE FOR DIFFERENT SOCIAL CLASSES TO MINGLE.

I CHOOSE MY ROOM WITH GREAT CARE… THIS NEEDS TO BE SPECIAL. THE WAITER TAKES ME TO A BEAUTIFUL SEAT BY THE WINDOW. I HAVE MY OWN TABLE.

I SELECT THE ROSA VENEXIANA~ BLACK TEA & ROSE PETALS FLAVORED WITH BERGAMOT , ACCOMPANIED BY CHICKEN AND RADICCHIO SANDWICH.  
THE WAITERS ARE ELEGANTE~ DRESSED LIKE VICTORIAN BUTLERS.  
THE PRESENTATION WAS GLAMOROUS, THE SANDWICH VERY TASTY.
 (INSPIRED ME TO RECREATE BACK HOME FOR TEA WITH MY PARENTS) 
THE TEA…… GOOD, BUT ONCE AGAIN, I LIKE MINE BETTER. 
I MAKE A DAMN GOOD CUPPA TEA!

NOW I WALK BACK TO HOTEL SATURNIA TO CHILL IN THE LOBBY, WRITE A BIT, AND THEN CHANGE ME COSTUME FOR DINNER. 

FOR MY LAST DINNER IN VENEZIA I DECIDE TO TRY TO FIND THIS LITTLE CAFFE HIDDEN IN THE MAZE OF NARROW STREETS SOMEWHAT BEHIND DOGE’S PALACE.

I GET A BIT LOST, (IT’S IMPOSSIBLE NOT TO GET LOST IN VENEZIA. THIS IS A WAY OF FINDING NEW GEMS!) BUT EVENTUALLY DO FIND MY SWEET LITTLE CAFFE CHOICE. THE OWNER DRESSES IN A WORN OUT SUIT WITH A COLLAR REMINISCENT OF A PRIEST. HE’S VERY OL SCHOOL VENETIAN. BESIDES A YOUNG ASIAN STUDENT WITH A COUGH & SNIFFLES, (ITS VERY COLD) I’M THE ONLY PERSON DINNING. THE SNIFFLY ASIAN STUDENT IS HAVING A CUPPA TEA. SHE’S ON HER CELL PHONE THE ENTIRE TIME. HOW CAN SOMEONE BE IN THE MOST SPECTACULAR CITY IN THE WORLD AND GO ONLINE TO ESCAPE?! I ORDER GNOCCHI WITH SHIRMP AND A GLASS OF ROSSO DEL VERONESE.

IT IS A SPLENDID MEAL… I COMPLEMENT THE OWNER. ITALIANS TAKE PRIDE IN THEIR FOOD & DRINK. IT’S THE UPMOST IN COMPLEMENTS TO PRAISE A MEAL, IN FACT IT’S INSULTING NOT TO DO SO. I GIVE THE OWNER, THE HIGHEST PRAISE “GRAZIE! GRAZIE! DELIZIOSO…. HE ACTUALLY BLUSHES WITH PRIDE.

THE OWNER, WAITER AND I HAVE A NICE CHAT. THEY TELL ME VENEZIA IS THE SAFEST CITY IN ITALY. ONE CAN GO ANYWHERE AT ANYTIME, WITHOUT WORRY OF CRIME. 

SOME TOURISTS ARE INTIMIDATED BY THE DARK NARROW MAZES OF STREETS. 

I RECALL THE COMFORT OF STRANGERS, THAT HAS THIS CLUELESS ENGLISH COUPLE  SO LOST, THEY END UP SLEEPING IN ONE OF THE TINY, DANK STREETS. THAT’S NOT GONNA HAPPEN, UNLESS YOU ARE A VERY DRUNK, SELF-ENTITLED ENGLISH TOURIST.

AFTER A LEISURELY STROLL THRU VENEZIA FOR THE LAST TIME, I AM BACK IN MY ROOM AT HOTEL SATURNIA. 

VOGLIO TORNARE INDIETRO
VOGLIO TORNARE INDIETRO
TORNERO
TORNERO
IS MY MANTRA.

 I NEED TO LEAVE A MARK IN VENEZIA. I DECIDE TO PLACE MY BOOK-
13 YEARS OF BONDAGE AS A RELIC FOR SOMEONE TO FIND ONE DAY, 
PERHAPS IN  AN HOUR, IN A DAY, THE DISTANCE FUTURE, OR MAYBE NEVER.
 MY GOAL WOULD BE FOR IT TO EVENTUALLY WITHER AWAY FROM THE ELEMENTS OF VENEZIA. 

12.24.2017- 
HERE IS WHERE I PLACE MY BOOK IN A SMALL PIAZZA AT 5AM.. 
WHEN I LEFT AT 11AM IT WAS STILL THERE. I ROMANTICIZE MY BOOK WEATHERING THRU THE HARSH WINTER. GETTING SOAKED DURING THE RAINS. THEN IN THE SPRINGTIME, FADING AND HARDENING. EVENTUALLY MELTING IN THE SUMMER LIKE GUSTAV VON ASCHENBACH IN THE LAST SCENE OF DEATH IN VENICE, 
AS A BEAUTIFUL YOUNG TADZIO-LIKE BOY DISCOVERS IT, TAKES IT HOME AND DECLARES IT-

HIS TREASURE.