For [duxelles](/tools/fooddictionary/entry/?id=2374)
1 pound mushrooms, minced (preferably with a knife)
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons (1/2 ounce) finely chopped black truffles* (optional)
1/4 cup heavy cream
1/4 teaspoon salt, or to taste
1/8 teaspoon black pepper
For Mornay sauce
About 1 1/2 cups whole milk
4 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter
6 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 oz coarsely grated Gruyère (1/3 cup)
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon black pepper
1/8 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
Special equipment: an oval or wide round 5- to 6-qt heavy ovenproof pot; cheesecloth; kitchen string; an instant-read thermometer; 2 (1-qt) sealable plastic bags; an ovenproof platter
Accompaniments: boiled potatoes; haricots verts
PREPARATION
Braise veal:
Position oven racks in upper and lower thirds of oven and preheat to 325°F.
Pat veal dry and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Heat oil and 1 tablespoon butter in 5- to 6-quart pot over moderately high heat until foam subsides, then brown veal on all sides, turning with tongs, about 10 minutes. Transfer veal to a plate and discard fat from pot.
Melt remaining tablespoon butter in pot and cook onion, celery, and carrot over moderate heat, stirring and scraping up any brown bits, until softened, about 5 minutes.
Wrap parsley, fresh thyme (if using), and bay leaf in a square of cheesecloth and tie into a bundle with string to make a bouquet garni, then add to vegetables along with wine and dried thyme (if using). Put veal on top and bring to a simmer.
Cover pot with lid, then transfer to lower third of oven and braise veal until thermometer inserted 2 inches into center of meat registers 145°F, about 1 1/2 hours.
Transfer veal to a cutting board and let stand 30 minutes (internal temperature will rise to 155°F). Pour cooking juices from pot through a fine-mesh sieve into a 4-cup measure, pressing on and discarding solids. Skim off fat and reserve juices, adding any juices that have accumulated on plate from veal, for Mornay sauce.
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